Time travel - Phu Quoc

Imagine going back in time to Phuket, Thailand, around 1980.

Then, when you set of on a motor shooter from Patong beach, you hit dirt roads fast. These roads didn’t lead to mega resorts hogging every inch of coastline. They led to deserted beaches.

Fast forward to 2008. When was the last time you swam out through crystal clear water from a fine sand beach that contained not a single man-made structure nor a single person? When was the last time you stayed in a beach bungalow or villa that was really ON the beach…. for less than $50 a night?. When did you enjoy a $4 beach massage without being pestered by hawkers? A seafood feast at sunset for $5?

Welcome to Phu Quoc Island off the southern tip of Vietnam. It’s the same size as Phuket and just as beautiful. But last year Phuket welcomed over 2.6 million visitors at it’s international airport. Phu Quoc welcomed less than 50,000 to its tiny airport. Only a one hour flight from HCM City, it’s South East Asia’s last large undeveloped island paradise.

The north comprises mountainous rainforest, waterfalls, rickety bridges, wild beaches and pepper plantations. Take the coast road south and you’re in for a treat. Miles of natural, windswept beach coastline, fishermen’s huts and the occasional herd of cows. The southeast hides its secrets.

Why hasn’t it been developed yet? The island is on an old a fault line of dispute between Vietnam and Cambodia. Until about five years ago 50,000 of the islands 70,000 population were troops stationed in the North. Now, the global march of capitalism conquers all. Most troops have gone home and the beaches are open.

And empty.

But not for long. A new international airport is planned. Twelve billion dollars worth of Tourism development has been approved. Hanoi has taken control of development after 4 years of provincial bungling. Every beach is taken. The bulldozers are coming.

So, whilst you might put off visiting Venice and the Antarctic a few years, and still find them intact, Phu Quoc won’t be the same.

Flights

Vietnam Air flies HCMC - Phu Quoc, five times daily. Book in advance as these 80 seater flights are often full. Check prices with your local travel agent or buy the Phu Quoc Guide and we'll show you how to book at local prices (US$95 return). See 'Resources' tab at the bottom of this web site.

Accommodation

If you’re a five star traveller – stay at the marvelous La Veranda ($165+). An oasis of colonial style and fine food/service. If you want your beaches empty, head north to the splendid isolation of eco resort Mango Bay ($65 - $85). Or stay at one of the many small resorts along Long Beach for $15 - $100. Mai House ($65), Beach Club ($25) and Tropicana ($56) lead the pack but Cassia Cottage ($75-$100) has a lovely pool and Hiep Thanh ($35) is also excellent. Basic cold water/fan beach bungalows with a hammock out front at Naht Lan can be snagged for $15, as can the four cabins at the front of Viet Thanh. Just add candles and they’re more romantic than any honeymoon suite. Note: all prices are in US dollars. The MySherpa guide provides a full review of each of these fine establishments, indicates which are the cabins closest to the beach and the best way to book. Buy the Phu Quoc guide and recieve an immediate download of the Accommodation and flight information in PDF form . Book like you've been there before.

Activities

Avoid being hurded like cattle in mini buses. Rent motor scooters for $8 dollars a day, and head out on signature Phu Quoc red dirt. Look out for cows. Wave at locals as you pass small fishing villages untouched by time. The best 'road trips' including where to stop for great seafood feasts are highlighted in the MySherpa Phu Quoc guide. Note: There are few good road signs and a labarynth of red dirt roads. You will get lost. Phu Quoc maps available on the island are often out of date and hopeless for navigation. The MySherpa map was developed to help you avoid this fate. After Moto adventures, the other 'don't miss' is a boat trip out to the untouched archipeligo of An Thoi Islands. Get a private boat and snag a secluded private beach. We show you how.

When you’re done - take a few nights in Saigon. Shop 'til you drop. A holiday you will never forget.

 

When’s the best time to come to Phu Quoc?

 

High Season

The island Phu Quoc’s monsoonal sub-equatorial climate is at its best in the November to March period. Sunny skies and consistent temperatures of 77 - 82 degrees F, (25 - 28 Celsius) make it a good time to be here. Eden Bar and Palm Tree restaurants open on Long Beach. All the tours and dive operators go out daily, weather permitting. Rainbow Bar and Carole build a crowd early and late most fine evenings. On the negative side, prices are high and the island becomes more congested. You won’t be alone in finding your way to Sao Beach and may have to hunt further a field for private beach experiences. Many of the most popular hotels and resorts are heavily booked long in advance. Flights can also be a real problem.

Shoulder Season

May - June and Sept - Oct can be good with less crowding, cheaper prices and reasonable odds of good weather. April and May are the hottest months with temperatures reaching 35 degrees. Worth paying for air conditioning at this time of year. June and late Sept can be good depending on luck with rain. In October many resorts schedule annual maintenance so check before you book.

Low Season

Late July to early September is the time to avoid for most. Monsoon seasons can be very wet and wild. Under prolonged deluges the red dirt roads turn to slippery sludge and roads become impassable. You can get lucky, of course, and this time of year is still great for those who are newly in love and mad Englishmen. Bring wet weather gear and ski goggles. You may get lucky with some sun or become very familiar with the bargain half-price $12 winter massage at Sasco Blue Lagoon. Ultimate wildcard holiday.

Can I buy this guide book on the island? ?

Yes. The guide is on sale at the following outlets: Phu Quoc Explorer, La Veranda, Mango Bay, Ancient Village, Cassia Cottage Tropicana, Beach Club, Hiep Thanh, Charm Shopping Village, Eden Bar

How do I find out more?

See 'Resources' at the bottom of this web site.